Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Chanel

Karl "Prospero" and his Underwater Runway Extravaganza:

Chanel Spring/Summer 2012

Two days ago, Karl Lagerfeld showed his beautiful Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 Collection during Paris Fashion Week. He transformed the Grand Palais--the site of all his runway shows, into a magical underwater world. Just wait until you see the beginning of the video below. The stage is INSANE! All I kept thinking about was "Wow, look what perfumes and purses can buy you!". The collection, which consisted of over 8o looks (!), was a success, according to all who were there. He began with modern interpretations of the Chanel suit, in soft tweeds, boucle's, in white, cremes, light lemons, pastel-y pinks, turquoise and black.

Chanel Spring/Summer 2012

Lots of Spring-like prints, chiffon's, fluttery ruffle dresses and blouses. Shoes were either sandals or flat booties in leather and metallics. NO heels in sight. He also showed some fabulous swimsuits toward the end which you can see in the runway video. They looked like "Sports Illustrated Mermaids" rising from the sea!

Chanel Spring/Summer 2012

For evening, it was relaxed, yet very LUXE glamour, with printed silk dresses, lots hitting "tea"-length with sequin embellishments. Stiffer silk gazar's, organza's, and/or iridescent satins added lots of texture and an architectural element. Lots of shoulder interest--which remains a strong trend.

Chanel Spring/Summer 2012

Chanel Spring/Summer 2012

Also, look for the "Voluminous Sheath" where it's fitted up top but then softly leads into interesting shapes from the high-waist down. All in all--at least from seeing the photos and the video--a beautiful, modern collection. Bravo Karl and his team! You'll probably see ten out of the 80+ looks in the stores come next Spring , but who cares, the show was glorious! Speaking of the show--did I mention Florence Welch of Florence and The Machine performed. Yep. Again, what perfumes and purses can buy you darlings!

Click Below for the Full Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 Runway Video:

Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2011: Gucci, Prada

Anjelica Huston, 60's/70's Chic, Chartreuse, Fuchsia, Croq-skin and YSL Mondrian Dress References...Ciao Milano Fashion Week!!!

Fall According to Frida: Gucci Fall/Winter 2011

Gucci Fall/Winter 2011:

Is The Train to Florence Here?: Gucci Fall/Winter 2011

It's Milan Fashion Week kids. I discussed my Highlights of NY Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2011 these last couple of weeks as well as Madrid and London Fashion Week Postings HERE and HERE. And so the fashion catwalk continues...For Gucci's 90th Anniversary (90th!!!), Designer Frida Giannini went 70's Glam showing PLUNGING necklines, lots of luxe fur, flowing silk chiffon "Disco" dresses, culottes, silk half-circle skirts and Fedoras. The models can only be described as having a Can-Someone-Tell-Me-Where-My-Driver-Is Attitude that looked chic, effortless and yet Bitchy at the same time: Love it! Colors were no-holds-barred VIBRANT: Chartreuse, bubblegum pink fuchsias, deep violets, lipstick reds. You want Black,? Look somewhere else girls.

Giannini said she was inspired by Anjelica Huston, among other things. I can see it: The Styling and look of the collection reminded me of the Style Icon, especially from a 1970's "snapshot" of her with Jack Nicholson; the slicked hair, the red lips, the I-just-threw-this-on fur...that decolletage! Here are some Highlights...including the Shoes and Purse You Need To Have, come this Fall...

Campari and Soda: Gucci Fall/Winter 2011

Oops, that's my leg: Model Chanel Iman in Gucci Fall/Winter 2011

Milano Disco: Gucci Fall/Winter 2011

Python Fierce: A covered Pump, Gucci Fall/Winter 2011

T-Strap Princess: The Strappy heel of the Season from Gucci Fall/Winter 2011

Bag DIVA: Gucci Fall/Winter 2011 mini-bag

Watch FULL Gucci Fall/Winter 2011 Runway Show:

Prada Fall/Winter 2011:

Color Blocked: Italian Supermodel Mariacarla Boscono Prada Fall/Winter 2011

Miucca Prada unveiled her Fall/Winter 2011 Prada Collection, and of course it had all the Prada "stamps": Kitschy "Thrift Store Couture" looks, boxy 60's shapes, bag-lady chic prints and We-Need-To-Have accessories. It was all very Courreges-meets-Paco Rabanne in a way.

Marcia Marcia: Prada Fall/Winter 2011

Yes, there were 60's influences, but there were also 1920's "Amelia Earhart"-meets-early 70's looks a la Marcia Brady looks as well, with those drop-waist dresses above and below...

Drop-That-Belt: Prada Fall/Winter 2011

There was also an overt nod to THE Master: Yves Saint Laurent, and his iconic 1965 Mondrian dress above.

Also evident in the just-unveiled Prada Fall/Winter 2011 Collection: Lots of Croq-skin. In luxurious colorful drop-shoulder boxy coats as well as...

These ankle-grazing shoe-boots that EVERY Fashion-Girl will risk not paying her next months rent for. I would! Just sayin'

Fish Scale Cocktail: Prada Fall/Winter 2011

For evening: Neon colors and over-sized paillettes and long fuzzy fur. As is usual with the House of Prada, there were NO GOWNS, but that doesn't mean that we might not see one or two Custom Prada Gowns at the Academy Awards Red Carpet this Sunday!

And finally: May I show you THE Must-Have Prada Sunglasses for your next trip to the Italian-Swiss Alps this coming Winter. Time to put my early order in! Watch FULL Prada Fall/Winter 2011 Runway Show:

Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week-Fall 2011: Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Angel Schlesser

Moda Olé !!!

Crayola Couture: Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Fall 2011

Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week (Pasarela Cibeles Madrid) is happening as we speak in yes, Madrid, Spain from February 18-23rd, in case you didn't know. Since it basically occurs at the same time as London Fashion Week, many international fashion editors, chose to attend the latter so Madrid gets "left behind". But, in terms of local interest and press, it gets major coverage within Spain.

How Do You Want Your Egg...Dress? Designer Agatha Ruiz de la Prada

One of the stars of the Spanish Fashion Circles is Designer Agatha Ruiz de la Prada. A little background on Miss Ruiz de la Prada: She is from Spanish nobility, a 12th Marquise of Castelldosrius, Grandee of Spain, and baroness of Santa Pau. Early in her career, she became part of “movida madrileña”--a cultural and artistic revolution coming out of Madrid and in the late 80's/early 90's, allied forces with one of Spain’s most important department stores, El Corte Inglés and then became known as one of Spain's most visible fashion designers. She is a cross between France's Jean Charles de Castelbajac (Remember THAT Muppet Dress!) and a little bit of Vivienne Westwood irreverence. And add a BIG DASH of Pedro Almodovar color theory and Voila: Welcome to the World of Agatha Ruiz de la Prada.

My Valentine: Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Fall 2011

For her Fall 2011 Collection, this was her 30Th Anniversary in business and she celebrated with a collection based on Hearts and Love. Lots of red, glitter and voluminous designs. And of course, a quirky dress or two. It wouldn't be an Agatha Ruiz de la Prada show without them. Very few--except the Designer herself actually wears these things. And none of it actually ends up in any of her many stores throughout Madrid, Barcelona, Paris and Milan. BUT what she does sell are TONS of accessories and fun "basic clothing"--from jewelry,motorcycle helmets, umbrellas, coin purses, baby clothing, t-shirts, bicycles and even furniture.

They all have her unique Agatha Ruiz de la Prada stamp. And all the people buying those peripheral items is what allows (Thank Goodness!) for Ruiz de la Prada to keep having these kooky collections that makes us smile! PS: If Lady Gaga hasn't called yet, she might be calling real soon!!!

Highlights of Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Fall 2011:

Wearable...for Agatha: Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Fall 2011

Can I Join You For Tapas: Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Fall 2011

The All-You-Can-Eat Gown: Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Fall 2011

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Fall 2011 Runway Video--Final Walk:

Angel Schlesser Fall 2011

Spanish Fashion Designer Angel Schlesser (above) is in the opposite fashion design spectrum of Agatha Ruiz de la Prada; Schlesser designs are more rooted in "reality" as opposed to "fantasy" and playfulness. All the top Spanish Society ladies--the likes that always end up on the cover or inside iHOLA! Magazine--wear his elegant "Ladies Who Lunch-and-Dine" clothes. They're very Princess Letizia of Spain; proper yet fashionable. His women ALWAYS end up on Spain's Best Dressed Lists. Think of him like Jason Wu-meets-Oscar de la Renta...but with less "frou-frou". For Fall 2011, Schlesser showed luxurious fur wraps/scarves, superb tailoring and languid crepe gowns. Colors were black, gray, camel, brick red, bubblegum pink and a cheetah print or two. All cut perfectly and all very Luxe.

Highlights from Angel Schlesser Fall 2011.

Young Society: Angel Schlesser Fall 2011

Ready To Meet The Crown Prince: Angel Schlesser Fall 2011

Easy Breezy Madrid Style: Angel Schlesser Fall 2011

...And Scene! Angel Schlesser Fall 2011

Angel Schlesser Fall 2011 Runway Video--Final Walk:

NY Fashion Week Fall 2011: Rodarte, J. Mendel

Wheat Fields, Metallics, sequins, More Fur!, Art Deco 1920's Elegance...More NY Fashion week Fall 2011 Highlights!

House on the Rodarte Prairie: Rodarte Fall 2011

Rodarte Fall 2011

Leather Tanner: Rodarte Fall 2011

For Rodarte Fall 2011, the dynamic design duo of sister Kate and Laura Mulleavy, were inspired by the prairie wheat fields. There were several "Prairie Coats", silk mousseline gowns with "exploding" wheat prints at the hems and dresses with "aprons" featuring geometric graphics--it was very "True Grit" Couture-meets-Little House On the Prairie Luxe. The collection seemed almost a departure from what we've seen in the past, in terms of their "Arts-&-Crafty"-a-woolen-knot-here-and-a-twisted-tulle-there dresses. It almost looked (wait for it) more sell-able and commercial. Well, as "commercial" as Rodarte's almost one-of-a-kind pieces can be. Below--and above--are some standouts.

Wheat Gown: Rodarte Fall 2011

Do-Si-Do Square Dancing: Rodarte Fall 2011

We're Not In Kansas Anymore: Rodarte Fall 2011

Click below to watch FULL Runway Show of Rodarte Fall 2011:

J. Mendel Fall 2011:

1920's Goddess: J. Mendel Fall 2011

Dapper J. Mendel Designer Gilles Mendel said that he was influenced by his father's collection of aboriginal art as well as the tribal body art of the indigenous Australians, which he also noted reminded him of Art Deco Architecture--go figure! Yes, we designers can be influenced and inspired by A LOT of things. If this was John Galliano or Jean Paul Gaultier, well, you can only IMAGINE what those models--and the clothes--would look like! However, under Mendel's restrained and elegant tutelage, it became an elegantly subtle inspiration that morphed into silky 1920's gowns featuring geometrically-cut sequins as well as lots of furs--which is something the house knows a thing or two about since it's their "thang"! The collection was GORGEOUS! Take a look:

Art Deco Coat: J. Mendel Fall 2011

A Night Out At The Theater: J. Mendel Fall 2011

Plunging Beauty: J. Mendel Fall 2011

Click Below to watch FULL Runway Show of J. Mendel Fall 2011:

NY Fashion Week Fall 2011: Michael Kors and Marchesa

"What Recession?" Clothing, Furs , Slits, 70's Disco, and Oscar Gowns: The Big M's : Michael Kors and Marchesa!!!

First Class is Ready To Board: Michael Kors Fall 2011

Michael Kors Fall 2011:

Where Is My Vuitton Luggage: Michael Kors Fall 2011

Michael Kors Turned 30!! Well, his design company did! And so this show was a HUGE one--68 looks, menswear, womenswear, Brazilian Supermodels, A-List Front Row Celebs, you name it, they were there. In terms of the Collection: Very Michael Kors. Lots of double-face cashmere, LOTS of luxe furs, simple uncomplicated shapes, delicate draping, "Disco" plunging cowl neck draping, jumpsuits and VERY HIGH slits.

Cowl Disco: Michael Kors Fall 2011

Think 1979 Bianca Jagger/Lauren Hutton off to Aspen. Or...better yet, the mistress--or wife--of a Multi-Millionaire Goldman Sachs banking executive, getting on her private jet off to their Swiss Chalet near St. Gallen. Yep, these are clothes for the woman who has NEVER EVER seen what "Coach Class" looks like, and what a Recession feels like. Understated Luxe 2.0.

Brazilian Slit: Supermodel Isabeli Fontana in Michael Kors Fall 2011

Easy Breezy Luxe: Michael Kors Fall 2011

Hi-Low Caftan: Michael Kors Fall 2011

Click Below for the Full Runway Video of Michael Kors Fall 2011:

Marchesa Fall 2011:

Don't Step On My Train: Marchesa Fall 2011

While Elie Saab's Haute Couture Spring 2011 Collection--shown last month in Paris--had fashion commentators saying that it looked all very "Miss Havisham"---Marchesa's Fall 2011 Collection actually WAS!!! Marchesa Co-Designer Georgina Chapman said she was inspired by watching "Great Expectations" on TV one night and of course, the movie's "Diva", Miss Havisham.

Marchesa Mourning: Marchesa Fall 2011

Decadent dresses, gowns and overcoats and opulent silks, yards and yards of tulle, silk organza and applique lace embroideries. The show--sponsored by Range Rover--was once again done "Gallery Style" as models stood there, showing each and every piece in all their Almost-Couture Glory. Pay attention Red Carpet Watchers: I have a feeling SEVERAL of these will end up at the upcoming Academy Awards...Like these FOUR below:

Blush Best Dressed: Marchesa Fall 2011

Oscar Stunner: Marchesa Fall 2011

Rihanna, For Your Consideration: Marchesa Fall 2011

Belle of the Oscar Ball: Marchesa Fall 2011

Click Below for "Range Rover Sponsors Marchesa Fall 2011 Fashion Presentation" Video: